On October 21st we were blessed with waves. No wind, a dropping tide, and enough swell for one of my favorite lefts at home to show her face.
I had only landed back in the US only 8 hours before and when I woke up I had no clue swell had arrived. As I drove around checking the area, I saw Damo running to the beach about to paddle out. I quickly drove home to unpack my camera and housing from my luggage.
The water was still warm, a solid crew was out, and the sun shined bright above our heads. Slowly as the tide began to drop out from underneath our fins, the waves got better and better. Close to the end of the session Damo and I lined up perfectly and he passed me in the barrel within inches of my lens. Its days like this that keep me smiling for weeks and make me more than excited to get back in the water with my camera. A few waves later Damo and I got hung up on a close out and went over the falls together. I did a complete summersault in the lip and was lucky enough to land on my back when I hit the reef. We both came up laughing but the tide had dropped so low that we were sitting in shallow water. As I swam back into position, I made the decision I would definitely wear a helmet next time I shot in any critical surf.
Coming home and watching the footage I felt very fortunate to have gotten so many fun clips in one session. It shows you how good Damo really is. Watching the session in slo motion helps you appreciate the details of the moment and helps me see where I can improve.
I was kicking myself for going under on David Duponts double up, but I remember not seeing another option in the moment.
I'm thankful for these days. Its these days that motivate me and inspire me to keep working to improve my skills in the water.